Thursday, January 30, 2020

Our Bodies, Our Selves

    Like many women of my generation (heck, maybe all the generations!), I've had a love/hate relationship with my body. There are things I love - that it moves mostly effortlessly when I want it to, and hate - I've always wanted to be taller and slimmer. But as I approach the later chapters in my life, I find that I have also begun to appreciate and revere it in new ways.
    There was a time when I challenged it beyond reason. I would try to carry ALL the groceries from the car into the kitchen at one time. Not only did it make climbing the basement stairs incredible dangerous, there were no medals or accolades waiting when I made it. What I did get was a pain in my hands and arms and the distinct fear that I could have tumbled down all 14 steps. When I started to give myself a break and make two trips, it also gave me a few more steps towards my daily count. I learned that I could be kinder to myself and I wasn't being a wimp.
    In my teenage years, it was common for my friends and me to bemoan the lack of natural fluffiness in our upstairs department. Let me put it another way: what nature didn't give you, a Wonderbra might. Though I didn't resort to emptying the tissue box into my bra, my sweaters sure would have fit better with 'more there'!  Today, as I approach my mid-50s, this is the last thing on my mind and I often feel relieved that I wasn't more well-endowed. Recently, I purchased a bra online. Talk about shopping in the dark! I had to rely on sheer mathematics. When the package arrived and I opened it, I found a brassiere that looked like it could accommodate Helga the Buxom. I guffawed loudly and showed it to my husband. "Get a load of this, babe! They must have sent me the wrong size... It's ENORMOUS!" But then I tried it on. It fit.
    My mother, who is 87, is reaching the point when the body she relied on is beginning to fail her. She was used to putting on shoes and just going wherever she wanted. Now it is taking more than a few pharmaceuticals to keep her upright. She is frustrated at the slowness of the bounce-back and wishes that wishing would make it so.
    About a month ago, I began to develop a funny little lump at the second joint of my index finger. I rubbed it curiously when it started to ache. I showed it to a nurse friend who told me, with a sympathetic look, that it was probably arthritis. ARTHRITIS?? You've got to be kidding me! I'm just... Well, I guess it is possible.
    It is with a sigh that I say that aging ain't for sissies, and waking up with a pain here or an ache there has become commonplace. I know that things will only get worse from here, but I still have arms that lift what I need them to lift (within reason), legs that can get me where I want to go, senses that still work fairly well, and innards that - if I treat them right - will function to expectation. I know that a time will come when I'll adjust activities, like not driving at night or using a walking stick. I'll change my behavior to accommodate my changing body by allowing more time for self care or taking an afternoon nap. I'll use the restroom whenever an opportunity comes up. I'll have to retrace my steps to remember why I walked into the kitchen.
    But for now, I will respect the temple, make self-care a priority, and simply be kind to myself. While I can't control where life takes me, I can definitely manage my attitude along the way.

Saturday, January 18, 2020

The Sandwich Generation

    People in my age bracket sometimes find themselves sandwiched between two generations. We are old enough to have grandchildren and yet young enough to have our parents around. And on occasion, we are called upon to care for both at the same time.
    Such was my situation last week, when a long-anticipated visit from our toddler grandson happened at the same time that my mother was hospitalized with a pretty serious health condition. I arranged for a friend to mind the boy for a couple of hours so I could catch up on work and visit my 87-year-old mom without the playful laughter and persistent demands of a two-and-a-half-year-old.
    On one particularly challenging day, I spent lunch coaxing my mother to eat the hospital food that she said was unappealing. Then I spent dinner coaxing the little guy to eat all his cheesy pasta. Both meals looked pretty good to me, who was hungry and tired enough to polish off either, particularly if it was presented to me on a tray.
    For either family member, I was the go-to gopher. I toted toys, fetched essentials, and did a fair amount of bargaining and cajoling. Though it was exhausting and people at work commented, towards the end of the week, 'wow, you look tired!', I was strengthened by the knowledge that I did what needed to be done.
   Amid the chaos were moments when everything went right: nap time coincided with a conference call, and the health care provider I had hounded arranged an appointment. Small victories are what's needed to push an army of one over the next hill.
    Though a bit sleep-deprived, fortified by grab-and-go meals that were less than healthy, and without my regular exercise routine, I not only survived but emerged with a sense of accomplishment. If I were a girl scout, I'm sure this would qualify me for a badge. And on the badge would be the image of a sandwich wearing a cape!

Tuesday, January 7, 2020

The Last Gasp of a Vacation

    In preparation for our flight early in the morning tomorrow, we've checked in to the Riande Aeropuerto Hotel - a posh but comfortable hotel very close to the airport. Living large for one final day, we had a nice seafood lunch, and have ended up at the pool for drinks and a dip.
    My margarita (frozen) reminds me of the weather back home. No matter how luxurious the bedding here, it is no match for our humble home. Overhead, the brilliant blue sky darkens as a tropical rain cloud rolls in - much like the grey skies of a Central New York winter. But for the moment, balmy breezes blow and palm trees sway.
   But the orchids hanging around me are not my orchids to tend, the children frolicking in the pool are not our kitties, and I am looking forward, just a little, to being back at the work that I find sometimes annoying but mostly rewarding. Just like you can't eat dessert all day long, these two kids are realizing that we gotta put the sweets down and have a taste of reality.
    So, hasta luego, Panamá! See ya later!

Red passion flower

Open air market in El Valle

Fresh, locally grown vegetables and fruits

Poinsettia bushes at Museo Victoriano Lorenzo

Monday, January 6, 2020

Our Magical Mystery Tour

    Geni has dubbed our travels during the past two weeks a 'Magical Mystery Tour' - that's definitely taken us all away with the sights, sounds and tastes of a new land and it's people
   Today, as we sat in front of a local grocery, mooching off their free WiFi, we ran into a local friend of Geni and Steve's - Neil, who is American and has traveled extensively. He once toured much of South East Asia, he told us, for the two and a half years he spent surfing with his son. We talked about how special travel is, and how much we despise the state of politics back home in the states.
    Among our accomplishments here in El Valle is that the staff of local restaurant are beginning to recognize us. For two days in a row, we had lunch at the Peruvian place because that chef - wearing his white uniform and toque hat - makes the best fried fish we've ever had. Tonight, we dined on BBQ ribs, chicken wings alitas fritas and ceviche.
    This afternoon, our visit to the butterfly gardens was enchanted. Being surrounded by these magical creatures was a special treat. While we walked the butterfly garden, rain fell while the sun shone full blast. When we told one of the museum guides that we found it interesting that the Very Hungry Caterpillar book was on display there and that it was one of our grandson's favorites, he reached into a small metal box and gifted us a wing from a beautiful Blue Morpho butterfly to give to him!
    At every turn, Panamá has both surprised and enchanted us. We are very glad to have had this amazing opportunity for a Magical Mystery Tour we'll never forget.

Restaurante El Camino del Inca

Blue Morpho at Butterfly Haven


Another Buho butterfly



Last day in El Valle

    Today, Monday, is our final day in El Valle. Feeling like the proverbial last day of vacation, we are determined to squeeze in all we can. Weather, schedules and energy permitting, we hope to have breakfast at Heaven's Cafe, because they have WiFi, which I've been seriously missing, then check out the Butterfly Haven, then go out to dinner in the evening at the first restaurant we tried here: Bruschetta.
    El Valle has been another unique experience in Panamá, like the ferry, like the island, like the cuisine, like the wind and mountain rains. I've experienced the stuff of stories and fables: Las Ranas Doradas golden frogs, la pirata Morgan, birds with astounding plumage, iridescent mariposas butterflies, smiling sloths, and the fierce vientos winds that swirl within the volcanic craters that make this valley.
    As can be expected, at this juncture, we are beginning to miss home. Yes, even the snowy, frigid weather that awaits us without mercy. No matter how far you roam, there's truly no place like home. We'll take memories, a few little souvenirs, and leave two friends who say they've experienced this all anew through our perspective. Is there any gift greater than this in the journey - to leave a little bit different than when you arrived?

Blue Morpho at Butterfly Haven

Buho butterfly


Educator at Butterfly Haven poses with Very Hungry Caterpillar book

Rainwater control device

On a hike

Duane rides a... chipmunk?

Cloud forest above the village of El Valle

Miniature Nativity scene at EV post office

Saturday, January 4, 2020

Las Ranas Doradas

     This morning, after a fortifying breakfast of yogurt, fruit, apple pastry and tea/coffee, we went off in search of the fabled golden frogs of El Valle de Anton. In the back of my mind, I remembered reading about the golden frogs of Panama (book: The Sixth Extinction by Elizabeth Kolbert) but never dreamt then that I would actually be here.
    The frogs were school bus yellow with brown markings on their backs. They were housed in an aquarium along with water, plants and sticks to perch on. Their bright golden color was a warning to predators because they had a potent poison in their skin. Biologists were breeding the endangered amphibians because a deadly fungus had just about decimated them.
   While the frogs lounged in their tank, we hiked the former habitat that still held the fungus that made their return impossible. We paused by a bubbling brook of the clearest water that had once been teeming with generations of golden frogs.
    Another treat of the natural world to be found on this trail were Los Arboles Cuadrado - giant trees with squared trunks. The ancient trees evidently just grow this way and are common to this area.
    We returned to Casa Mariposa just in time for lunch and ambled over to El Camino del Inca for a typical Peruvian meal of the most succulent and perfectly fried filet of corvina (local sea bass) that I have ever eaten. The meal, made by a Peruvian chef, consisted of rice, lentils and a small salad along with your choice of pescado, pollo or bistek. There is no better meal that $4.75 can buy you! While we were there, we talked to a young man named Sear from Toronto, who's family was originally from Afghanistan. He knew little Spanish, had only a few days in Panama but was determined to travel it well. We gave him some advice (order the fish!) and felt encouraged by his optimism and attitude.
    After lunch, we visited El Museo de Victoriano Lorenzo, an indigenous young man who was recognized as a martyr for standing up for social justice. In addition to a nice model of the valley created by various volcanic craters, some beautiful rock and petrified wood samples, the museum had a replica of the kind of adobe home that Victoriano would have lived in, as well as artifacts from the area in the 19th and 20th centuries.
    Returning to Casa Mariposa, we were treated to special visit with the sloths! Their faces are frozen in perpetual smiles like the smiles that appear on our faces when we see them. I got to hold Samie, one of the three-toed sloths, and found them strangely comforting to hold. Samie's claws could have ripped me to shreds, but that's not what sloths do. She clung to my shoulders as I supported her bottom like a baby. Their long fur, though it looks to be coarse and wiry, is really quite soft. What an experience!
    We relaxed in the strong mountain breezes that afternoon, made limeade and walked across to another local place for dinner (more fish!) and made it home just as rain drops were beginning to fall.

Hike near Las Ranas Doradas (golden frogs') creek


Beautiful Ranas Doradas at laboratory

El Pueblo de El Valle

    We have explored this little pueblo and are feeling comfortable within it. Yesterday, we walked down to one end of it, went to the open air mercado and bought some vegetales - baby bok choy and limes for dinner. After stopping for uno helado (ice cream) de vanilla, we headed in the opposite direction to the mercado super El Rey for rice noodles, pork, and ginger root.
    That morning, we took a taxi driven by a local guy named Tolo to El Chorro Macho, an amazing trail through thick forest, climbing stone terraced steps and crossing several stoutly-built rope bridges to reach a great waterfall. The descent itself felt like the one at Chittenango Falls but the flora and fauna couldn't be any more different.
    We saw a beautiful and uncommon Wood Rail - a ground bird with bright orange legs, and a Rufous Motmot with it's persimmon head and azure tail feathers! Our guide, a young man who was in training for bird guiding, showed us small fish that he called sardines shimmering in a little stream below the bridge where we stood. These little fish were quite literally 'walking' on stones to get from one small pool to another! As they slithered away, right next to us the smallest bees entered and exited their hive in the crook of a tree. Our guide explained that there were two types of bees in the forest and this was one - smaller than houseflies, these bees did not sting in the course of collecting nectar for making their honey.
    We did not visit any of the dining establishments in El Valle that day: Steve made tuna salad and Duane made a garden salad for lunch and for dinner I cooked a multicolored stir fry with bok choy, carrots, red cabbage, onions, sweet peppers, and celery all in a ginger-garlic sauce. Though my friends offered to help, I loved cooking all by myself while listening to their conversations and laughter.
    Side note: today, I got to see and hold a three-toed sloth named Samie! See pics below!

Waterfall at Chorro Macho

Walk in town with Cerro Gaital in the background

Sami and Samie

Holding the slowest, most peaceful creature

Star Wars reference near Los Arboles Cuadrado (square trees)

Thursday, January 2, 2020

Resetting Our Speedometers

    Though much of our trip has been relaxed and unhurried, with beach days and restful afternoons and one rainy day when we did nothing at all, today's arrival in the pueblo of El Valle de Anton was even one step further. First of all, our mascots here are a black dog named Snoopy and a three-toed sloth named Dahabie. The sloth, perezoso in Spanish, is the slowest, most sedate and relaxed creature in the world. It is believed that just being in the presence of one can lower your heart rate.
    Our accommodation for the next few days is a guestroom in the Casa Mariposa, run by a Swiss expat and her Colombian husband. Among other things, they ride bikes, do not own a car, have chickens, quail and rehabilitate sloths.
    El Valle sits in the crater of a long-extinct volcano so we're nestled in a verdant bowl with mountains all around us. One such mountain is called La India Dormida (the sleeping Indian) which amazingly looks like the face and upper body of a reclining woman.
    Today's accomplishments include 1) getting here, thanks to our faithful driver Mario, 2) enjoying a slow lunch at a local restaurant, 3) practicing more Spanish, and 4) buying groceries for the next few days. I was delighted to find Chobani Greek yogurt from New Berlin, NY and Duane scoped out more local beers at the Rey Supermercado.
    Walking nearly from end to end of this small village reminds us of our own village back home - people know each other, they tolerate tourists, and restaurant choices are somewhat limited. Tonight we balanced our hearty lunch with a cheesy pizza for dinner and coffee and tea at a local hostel/lounge.
    Tomorrow, we'll attempt a local hike and make time for relaxing in the garden. Very slowly, very deliberately, and living squarely in the moment.

Leaving Albrook the day after New Year's

Perezoso (sloth) at Casa Mariposa in El Valle

Wednesday, January 1, 2020

Veinte-veinte

    Happy 2020 - I can see clearly now, '19 is gone. By some chronological trickery, we start a new slate, even though this sunrise is no different than the one yesterday. The time of celebrating with friends and family is observed the world over. Each country, each culture, each family with their own traditions and ways.
    In Sri Lanka, the new year is celebrated twice - once on the 1st of January and then again in mid-April for the Sri Lankan new year. At either juncture, the eating of milk rice, made sticky-sweet with coconut milk, curries and a spicy chili paste is de rigueur. In Panama, there are numerous rituals to court good vibes in the coming year... eating 12 grapes at midnight, walking around the house with a suitcase to attract travel in the year ahead, or wearing yellow underwear for luck.
    Today is a major Do Nothing day for us four travelers. Our hotel is spacious and comfortable, with air con for the humid mid-day and big windows for catching evening breezes. Because of the holiday, we ordered our evening meal at lunch and heated it in the room's microwave for our NYE dinner. We ate, toasted with cold drinks, and had a festive meal recounting each our own "creation stories" about early days and marveled how life's twists and turns ultimately made an intricate pattern, even if there was no order or method to it.
    Yesterday, I spied my first ever Crimson-backed Tanager - a bird of startling plumage that I hadn't even known existed the day before. We're hoping to see a Tucan today (which I expect will appear holding a box of Froot Loops cereal because that's all I've ever known about this bright colored bird) as we laze by the pool.

El buho (owl) butterfly

Crimson tanager at Albrook

El Año Viejo

    The old year. Twenty-nineteen has reached it's end and so has the second decade of the twenty-first century.
    We visited the Biomuseo in the morning, to see one of Panama's most famous buildings - the carnival edifice of starchitect Frank Gehry. The audacious building houses an extensive exploration of the natural world, the rich biodiversity, and the cultural implications of Panama. It is interpretive, innovative and inspiring!
    Next, our patient and knowledgeable driver, Mario, whom we've had since our arrival at Panama's Tocumen International Airport, delivered us to the city's premier Bicicletas Rali bike store where Duane searched for a shop t-shirt. Alas, it was not to be had this time. There were world-class bicycles and all the parts, accessories, and tools that any bicyclist the world over would want - including the beautiful $5,000 ride that was "on sale".
    As we drove out of the heart of the city - through boroughs of tenement apartments, a lush national park, and finally palatial bungalows with large walled yards and patios; we had arrived at our "home" for the next two nights - the Albrook Inn. We settled in for two restful days and nights, with a small pool and patio for bird-watching and cool-drink-sipping.
    In Panama, everyone is smiling about the repetitious Veinte-veinte and dressing well and eating heartily for the new year. Last night, the popping of fireworks continued into the wee hours of the morning, but around us, the neighborhood is subdued and blooming in all colors. This is the first New Year's we've ever spent away from home. It is a bit strange to be so distanced from our traditions as to be in a different country altogether. But what use are traditions if you can't make new ones, right?
    El Año Viejo, is The Old Year as opposed to El Ano Viejo, which is The Old A--hole. Let the old one go and bring in the new. Our love and best wishes for you in the New Year. Happy 2020!

From the BioMuseo looking seaward

Giant ants in the BioMuseo

Ancient inhabitants


One side of the aquarium showed Pacific ocean life, the other Caribbean/Atlantic